December 12, 2016 -
In order to do the carpeting you have to pull out the seat belts and seats. I did that today and it felt like taking a step backwards but sometimes that's what you have to do. Tomorrow will try gluing in the big back panel with 77 spray adhesive.
Monday, December 12, 2016
Tuesday, October 4, 2016
Passenger Side Radiator Panel
October 4, 2016 -
I attached the passenger side radiator side panel today. I put the bulb seal along the top but noticed it didn't need any trimming like the driver's side. (Caveat, the radiator front aluminum panel did need to be trimmed along the end so it would lay flat, short of the frame.) I suspect possibly my radiator isn't totally level maybe? I don't think this is a serious issue but might check with the forums and will have Whitby check it out as well when they get it for the body work.
I attached the passenger side radiator side panel today. I put the bulb seal along the top but noticed it didn't need any trimming like the driver's side. (Caveat, the radiator front aluminum panel did need to be trimmed along the end so it would lay flat, short of the frame.) I suspect possibly my radiator isn't totally level maybe? I don't think this is a serious issue but might check with the forums and will have Whitby check it out as well when they get it for the body work.
Driver Side Radiator Panel
September 29, 2016 -
I attached the driver's side radiator side panel. This took a lot of trimming along the top and I did put the bulb seal on the top of it.
I attached the driver's side radiator side panel. This took a lot of trimming along the top and I did put the bulb seal on the top of it.
Radiator Front Panel
September 21, 2016 -
I attached the front panel of the radiator using stainless nuts and bolts I bought at the hardware store. I used these instead of the rivets mentioned in the manual because I think the painter will need to remove this in order to take the body off for paint and I thought I would make it easier.
I attached the front panel of the radiator using stainless nuts and bolts I bought at the hardware store. I used these instead of the rivets mentioned in the manual because I think the painter will need to remove this in order to take the body off for paint and I thought I would make it easier.
Wednesday, July 27, 2016
Side Pipes
July 24, 2016
When I first tried putting the side pipes on something was clearly wrong. They were pointed in weird directions. After some back and forth on the forums I discovered that I had the J-pipes in the wrong place. The J-pipes go in between the header attached to the engine and the side pipe. The longer J-pipe was supposed to go on the drivers side. After switching them I found that the collar that attaches the J-pipe to the header interfered with the oil temperature sender on the driver's side. This could be fixed with a T attachment or one could move the sender down to the oil pan. I didn't mess with what is already there so instead I ground down a notch in the collar to give some room. By the way, the manuals never said anything about which J-pipe goes where. Lastly, put your socket headed bolts on the inside. You won't get a ratchet on them on the outside in some places.
So you might think, ok that's a reasonable amount of frustration for one job. Wrong. Next you have to put on the rubber hangers that hold the side pipes off the frame. The bigger one went first and wasn't too tough. The smaller one however required drilling a hole high up close to the footbox floors through the 2" x 2" steel cross member of the frame. Under the car going across the back of the footbox flooring is another cross piece that prevents you from holding a drill level. In the manual they showed someone using a 90 degree drill to be able to fit in there. I didn't have that tool and neither did a few of my friends I asked. Maybe I should have bought it. Instead I tried to drill this hole from the other side, inside the footbox to the outside. I started with small drill bits, and when I came out in the wrong place I plugged the hole with silicone and a rivet. Michele was super helpful in tightening this bolt as one person can't reach under the car and inside the footbox to access both ends of the bolt. Thanks Michele! Not ideal but I got it done and I guess that's how a lot of this project has seemed.
Here's the end product:
When I first tried putting the side pipes on something was clearly wrong. They were pointed in weird directions. After some back and forth on the forums I discovered that I had the J-pipes in the wrong place. The J-pipes go in between the header attached to the engine and the side pipe. The longer J-pipe was supposed to go on the drivers side. After switching them I found that the collar that attaches the J-pipe to the header interfered with the oil temperature sender on the driver's side. This could be fixed with a T attachment or one could move the sender down to the oil pan. I didn't mess with what is already there so instead I ground down a notch in the collar to give some room. By the way, the manuals never said anything about which J-pipe goes where. Lastly, put your socket headed bolts on the inside. You won't get a ratchet on them on the outside in some places.
So you might think, ok that's a reasonable amount of frustration for one job. Wrong. Next you have to put on the rubber hangers that hold the side pipes off the frame. The bigger one went first and wasn't too tough. The smaller one however required drilling a hole high up close to the footbox floors through the 2" x 2" steel cross member of the frame. Under the car going across the back of the footbox flooring is another cross piece that prevents you from holding a drill level. In the manual they showed someone using a 90 degree drill to be able to fit in there. I didn't have that tool and neither did a few of my friends I asked. Maybe I should have bought it. Instead I tried to drill this hole from the other side, inside the footbox to the outside. I started with small drill bits, and when I came out in the wrong place I plugged the hole with silicone and a rivet. Michele was super helpful in tightening this bolt as one person can't reach under the car and inside the footbox to access both ends of the bolt. Thanks Michele! Not ideal but I got it done and I guess that's how a lot of this project has seemed.
Here's the end product:
Driver's side
Passenger side
Michele and I testing it out. It sounds much better than before!
Thursday, June 23, 2016
License Plate Final
June 23, 2016 -
A new day brings fresh eyes to a project and my short circuit was immediately obvious. Both the license plate and the aluminum panel I cut were so far up inside the plate holder they were shorting out the circuit between the metal bracket that holds the light bulb and the copper base plate that powers the bulb. I disassembled the unit, took out the plate I had cut and used the Dremel to cut out a large notch so the holder plate wouldn't touch the bulb contacts. Here's the notched plate holder.
Here you can see the notches I had cut in the contacts so that the license plate could go up as far as possible. I can't believe it didn't occur to me that I could short this circuit with the *metal* license plate.
A new day brings fresh eyes to a project and my short circuit was immediately obvious. Both the license plate and the aluminum panel I cut were so far up inside the plate holder they were shorting out the circuit between the metal bracket that holds the light bulb and the copper base plate that powers the bulb. I disassembled the unit, took out the plate I had cut and used the Dremel to cut out a large notch so the holder plate wouldn't touch the bulb contacts. Here's the notched plate holder.
Here you can see the notches I had cut in the contacts so that the license plate could go up as far as possible. I can't believe it didn't occur to me that I could short this circuit with the *metal* license plate.
So I figured I needed to insulate all this with some electrical tape. These were very small pieces of tape smooshed on with the smallest needle nose pliers I had.
And here are the lights working, two blown fuses later. That's not bad considering some have to keep disconnecting lights one by one and testing with a fuse to find a short.
Lastly, here's another old plate fitting in there nicely with the lights on. Incidentally, when this circuit shorted out, the running lights and the gauge lights were all not functioning.
License Plate Holder Part 2
June 21, 2016 -
Here is what the license plate holder looks like with an old Virginia plate in it.
Here is what the license plate holder looks like with an old Virginia plate in it.
The light isn't working and my running lights are blowing a fuse so I suspect there's a short somewhere and this new addition is my prime suspect. Electrical investigation to follow...
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