Notes from The Mott College Build School. (Which I highly recommend for anyone doing, or thinking of doing a build.)
Day 1:
Explosion proof bell housing
Virginia need catalytic converter?
Painters tape for protecting surfaces from all the labeling.
Short double sided drill but 1/8" (will need lots of these for riveting holes.)
Front suspension: score rubber bushing so grease flows out over it.
Spindle hub nut needs high torque- rent tool or alignment shop can do, or buy it.
Rear end: needs slip additive
IRS solid front mount instead of rubber mount
Rear alignment before trunk panels and body go on.
Front rough alignment 1/4" gap at top of tire to right angle ruler on ground against bottom of tire.
3 2x4s stacked will check 4.5" ride height.
Pedal bracket - trim interior corner so brake pedal doesn't catch.
Buy second brake reservoir.
Hydraulic clutch good upgrade.
Russ Thompson accelerator pedal?
Get cleko and sawzall (or borrow a friend's?)
Undercoat body, mostly wheel wells.
Flare nut wrench for brake line nuts.
Run brake lines outside side of frame up high off grounding hazard.
Front brake line - flex part mounted vertical and goes across frame x member.
To bleed brake lines need tube into bottle.
Double flaring tool set.
Tubing cutter- Ridgid
Spats made by 3M cover rear wheel well from rocks flying up from front tire.
Before lowering engine in get motor mounts on and transmission support/mount on and metal transmission bracket on frame.
Breeze or finishline shroud for radiator?
Brake lights- may want to have connector for each light. Headlights too. 3 prong Weather Pack connectors
Make an extra ground for rear and maybe for front ?
Need open barrel crimper for electrical connectors.
Check that accelerator pedal can't stick and get stuck open. May need to trim off top end of pedal arm.
For grounding to frame scratch off some powder coat since that is an insulator.
Clutch cable- ford Motorsport cable is much less pedal effort.
Aluminum panels- foot boxes and bottom of firewall before engine.
Cockpit after transmission, clutch cable.
Rear cockpit large panel goes in first then small pieces at the back of the transmission tunnel.
Cobra earl makes dropped trunk mod.
Rivet in small rear trunk panel from outside before larger outside panel.
Battery hook up positive first.
Day 3:
Paint job will likely take several weeks or months. Can do carpeting while waiting.
E-brake cable runs above rear end through bracket and then under 4" frame tube to take up slack and come in low enough for handle. Donor handle is better with spring since adjustments on kit handle need the
cables disconnected.
Use a roller pin to get out bubbles on dash material right after glueing. Also mark a panel outline on the back of the dash cover material before you lay the panel on the glued material.
Don't make pie cuts too close to dash metal.
Screw top of dash after paint is done to line up screws with with stripes.
Gauge holes- more pie slices will reduce dimples on front.
Wire together fan switch wires in harness to let engine control cooling fan. (These wires let you turn the fan off, bad idea.)
Seat belts- extra washer keeps moving belt from rubbing powder coat.
Bolts and nuts for trunk latch assembly.
Rear body install- lay paper over bulb seal so body doesn't tear bulb seal when installing the body.
Add roll bar grommets to order.
Windshield- might need to sand a little off the small side screws' end if it bottoms out.
Drill windshield feet with a step bit. Looks like a Christmas tree.
Might want to trim wind shield legs as they stick down into footbox.
To protect radiator make a screen with Velcro attachments in front of radiator.
Industrial Velcro can also be used for side vents. That lets them be removable for access to windshield base.
When the floor jack is lifting the front, come at and angle so the bottom of the body nose doesn't come down on the jack
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